Oaxaca Travel Guide (2026): What to Do, Eat, and See

Celebrated as the “land of seven moles” and home to the ancient Zapotec civilization, Oaxaca is at the very heart of Mexico’s cultural and culinary treasures. Our 7-day visit—just three months after our trip to Puerto Vallarta—was jam-packed with foodie finds, art, a walking tour, rooftop bars, archaeological ruins, and beach time! Your Oaxaca itinerary can include this…and so much more…depending on how much time you have.

Oaxaca Travel Tips: Know Before You Go

• With one week, you’ll have plenty to do in Oaxaca City if you include a couple of day trips.
  
  Or, spend a few days in Puerto Escondido as we did. It’s a three-hour drive to the beach. You can drive the toll road or hire a private or shared shuttle.
  
  
• The most popular day trips are UNESCO World Heritage Site Monte Alban (half-day trip) and Hierve el Agua, petrified waterfalls with natural springs you can swim in.
  
  
• The best areas to stay in are city center (convenient but potentially more noise) or the Jalataco neighborhood (20-minute walk to city center but quiet, scenic, and plenty of cafes and restaurants). See specific suggestions below, “where to stay.”
  
  
• Reserve popular restaurants well ahead of your visit. Oaxaca is a popular foodie destination. We highly recommend Levadura de Olla Restaurante but you’ll want to reserve three to four weeks ahead!
  
  Find more of my best travel tips for Mexico here.

Our Oaxaca Itinerary

We spent three days in Oaxaca City and then another three days after driving to Puerto Escondido for beach time. Funny story: I was last in these parts nearly 50 years ago.

My family and I took a five week Mexican road trip back in 1979—when I was 14—in our VW pop top camper round trip from Cleveland, Ohio, where we were living at the time…camping all the way! It was a pretty epic trip.

That was my first trip to Mexico. Since those days, in addition to my recent trip to Puerto Vallarta, I’ve cruised to Cancun, spent a week on the Yucatan Peninsula at Isla Holbox, visited Mexico City, and San Miguel de Allende.

Plus, I’ve day tripped to Rancho La Puerta for spa time in Tecate from San Diego and stayed in Valle de Guadalupe for Mexican wine tasting just over the border in Tecate at least four times!

Mexico’s friendly hospitality, relaxed pace, delicious food, and gorgeous landscapes make it one of my very favorite destinations.

When it comes to Oaxaca, you could easily spend a week basing there with a number of wonderful day trips, but if you’re like me and are always hoping to squeeze in a little Mexican beach time, I highly recommend you include a few days in Puerto Escondido.

Thanks to the new toll road put in in 2024, it’s just an easy three-hour drive over the mountains now. More on that below!

Where to Stay

In Oaxaca, we stayed at a fabulous Airbnb in the Jalataco neighborhood and loved it.

The host left us beers and Oaxaca cheese in the refrigerator as well as delicious baked goods from Boulenc Bakery and even toasted crickets, or “chapulines”, a popular Oaxacan snack. Try them!

It was about a 20 minute walk into the city center, but the neighborhood itself was full of colorful murals, tranquility, and tons of cafes and restaurants. Highly recommended.

We also spent our last night in city center at Becino. It was okay, but felt a little pricey for what it was. I’d try their sister property Boulenc Bed and Breakfast (affiliated with the best bakery in Oaxaca) next time.

Boulenc B&B fills up fast though (as it includes a delicious bakery breakfast) so reserve early. You can check price and availability here.

Day 1: Street Food + A Walking Tour (Art, History, Chocolate & Mezcal!)

Our first stop in Oaxaca was Mercado La Merced for breakfast at Fonda Florecita. Everything here was delicious.

Plus, breakfast for the four of us—which included several smoothies and a hot chocolate in addition to mains—was under $20 USD.

This might also have been the best hot chocolate of my life. Oaxacan hot chocolate is made from stone-ground cacao, raw sugar, cinnamon, and ground almonds. Don’t miss this experience!

It’s prepared with a “molinillo”—a special wooden whisk—that gives it a gritty but frothy texture.

Once we were fortified, we headed to El Centro for our free walking tour to get our bearings.

There were just two others signed up for our tour which made for an intimate and relaxing two hour walk around the city.

And for a free experience, it was pretty amazing to taste Mezcal, taste test cocoa at two different chocolate shops, and learn about historical landmarks.

For instance, the guide told us the city’s history stretched back more than 2,000 years…beginning with the Zapotec civilization that built the capital on Monte Alban, long before the Spanish ever arrived.

We also saw the former monastery Templo de Santo Domino Guzman, a 16th century Dominican church, built using local stone and indigenous craftsmanship, and browsed the photos at the Centro Fotografico Alvarez Bravo.

We also learned about “alebrijes”—vibrant hand-carved wooden creatures that represent spirit guides…and even visited an art gallery, Voces de Copal, where you can learn your own spirit animal (based on your birthday) and paint one!

Our dining experiences in Oaxaca were a mix of cheap and authentic street food as well as fine dining experiences. It’s my favorite way to eat my way through a trip!

We first tried tlayudas—Oaxaca’s specialty featuring a large crunchy, toasted tortilla with beans and other addons, typically grilled over an open flame—at Tlayudas El Tasajo.

They were…okay… but I think I’d like to sample them a second time elsewhere to give a final opinion.

However, we followed that up with unbelievable tacos El Pastor at Taqueria El Primo, a hole in the wall place we found with no tourists in Jalatalco. Highly recommended!

Day 2: Explore Historic Oaxaca City Center

Start your day at Boulenc, Oaxaca’s standout local bakery. There are actually two locations: One is in El Centro and the other is in Jalatlaco.

This is a great spot for coffee, fresh juices, and substantial Mexican breakfasts as well as pastries and excellent sourdough. Don’t miss a trip to Boulenc!

Oaxaca also has many wonderful museums to explore including:

• Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca
Housed in the stunning former convent of Santo Domingo, this museum explores the rich history of Oaxaca from ancient Zapotec and Mixtec civilizations to the colonial era.

Don’t miss the spectacular treasure from Tomb 7 here that was excavated at Monte Albán; it is one of the most important archaeological discoveries in Mexico!

•Museo Rufino Tamayo
Go here to see pre-Hispanic artifacts, displayed for their aesthetic beauty.

The pieces reflect the artistic sophistication of ancient Mesoamerican cultures and Tamayo’s passion for preserving Mexico’s heritage.

• Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Oaxaca
Located in a colonial mansion in Oaxaca’s historic center, this museum focuses on modern and contemporary Mexican art.

Its rotating exhibitions highlight influential Oaxacan artists and connect regional creativity with international contemporary art movements.

• Centro Fotográfico Manuel Álvarez Bravo. We really enjoyed this tiny photography museum included on our walking tour. Think “storytelling through photos about culture, identity, and daily life”.

Street food abounds here. So head to one of the markets—Mercado 20 de Noviembre or Benito Juarez—depending on which side of the city you’re on—to sample local specialties.

Try those Tlayudas I mentioned, memlas (thick grilled cheesy corn cakes), Oaxacan tamales (often steamed in banana leaves), and definitely don’t miss the elote (grilled corn on the cob slathered with a chili mayonnaise and cotija cheese. It’s frequently served in a cup.)

Agua frescas go down easy. These are lightly sweetened non alocholic strained fruit juices in a variety of flavors. And honestly, don’t worry about getting sick from these.

Vendors make these with filtered water and ice. I drank them all over with no problem. (Try the horchata flavor if you’ve never tasted it!)

Paletas are also yum. These look like popsicles but come in all kinds of fruity or cream-based mixtures from mango to cucumber and even savory flavors.

Check out a rooftop bar.

Is there anything better than a Mezcalita (Mezcal margarita) with a view?

We made a point of a later afternoon stop at a rooftop bar daily and do not regret it.

Two rooftop bars we can recommend:

• Gozobi Restaurant Bar in El Centro. Great Mezcalitas, a little pricier than other places for food.

• Viajero Oaxaca. This is actually part of a hostel. While the hostel doesn’t get great reviews, I’d definitely recommend the rooftop bar. (There’s even a small pool up there if you want to take a dip.)

Always Get Travel Insurance

This trip was a reminder of why we always buy annual travel insurance through Allianz (not an affiliate link, just a company we’ve used ourselves for years and highly recommend).

We’ve had several claims over the years, including during my 2023 cancer journey, where Allianz reimbursed us for four trips that we had to cancel. One of those trips was supposed to take place after that year of insurance had expired, but they still reimbursed us.

On our Oaxaca trip, one person in our group was feeling vaguely unwell before we left home and then got very sick while we were in the tiny beach town of Puerto Escondido.

They were young and healthy and so did not have travel insurance. In the end, they had to be hospitalized for 24 hours to receive IV antibiotics at the tiny beach hospital where no one spoke English. Then they flew home early via a last-minute flight for $2200!

Because we had paid for their flight, Allianz reimbursed us the cost…even though neither of us was ill. I was so impressed.

It will take you two minutes online to get a quote for your next trip. And if you’re over 40, I suggest quoting the cost per trip and annual coverage as it often works out better for annual coverage.

Day 3: Day Trip + Michelin Dining

Monte Alban Day Trip

If you’re short on time in Oaxaca City itself (less than four days), I suggest a day trip to Monte Alban, which takes a half day.

With more time, add a second day trip to Hierve el Agua.

Monte Albán, UNESCO World Heritage Site, was the capital of the Zapotec civilization for over a thousand years! We enjoyed a fantastic day exploring this area.

It’s one of Mesoamerica’s most important ruins as it was the first, and for a long time, the dominant Zapotec capital and one of the region’s earliest planned urban centers.

Unlike many ruins hidden in the jungle, this was a true political and ceremonial center of its day, with impressive engineering feats. The builders leveled an entire mountain peak to construct the massive city!

And truly, it deserves to be seen with a guide. Thanks to his commentary, I could envision it as it was in its heyday on feast days—painted entirely in red and thrumming with dancing and drums by thousands of celebrants!

You can check price and availability here on the half day Viator day trip we took to Monte Alban.

Hierve el Agua

If you have a full day to devote to a day trip, head to Hierve el Agua, famous for its perified waterfalls and natural springs. While the water isn’t hot per se, it’s still refreshing—at about 70 degrees Fahrenheit—on a warm day.

Just be aware that it’s a 1.5 to two hour drive from Oaxaca and back again.

This tour—while advertised as a half day tour, actually takes about six hours total, with time for the drive, a short hike, and relaxing in the pools. Check price and availability here.

Many tours to Hierve el Agua combine a visit with stops in other areas of interest, including to Mitla, a Zapotec religious center with palaces and tombs (but not pyramids like at Monte Alban).

In fact, this 11-hour tour includes Hierve el Agua, Mitla, a mezcal house, and Teotitlan de Valle, famous for its handmade wood rugs.

Textile making is huge in Oaxaca so if you’re interested in artistic traditions, check out the price and availability on the longer day trip tour here.

Dinner at Levadura de Olla

With its one Michelin star, Levaudra de Olla seems to be on every traveler’s list at the moment. So I wondered if it was worth the hype. Spoiler alert: It really was!

Leadura de Olla focuses on traditional Oaxacan recipes from Chef Thalia Barrios Garcia’s hometown. And local produce is at the heart of it all.

We loved the moles here, the famous tomato dish (with a bright, piquant beet puree underneath), and honestly, everything we tasted was unique and delish.

The service was also attentive, with our waiter taking plenty of time to explain every ingredient and dish to us.

Just be aware you’ll need to make reservations well in advance and also pay a deposit for your table that you’ll forfeit if you cancel without 24 hour notice. It’s a popular place!

How to Get to Puerto Escondido

It’s a three hour drive from Oaxaca through a narrow, curvy mountain pass. For years and years, this road was so awful that many people flew (which you can still do).

Funny story: I last drove that road on the family camping trip I mentioned back in 197. I still remember all of us dragging a dead burro off the narrow mountain road so we could pass!

The good news: In 2024, the Mexican government opened a new toll road that makes things infinitely easier. It’s a mostly excellent road now…although it looks like they’re trying to do major engineering reinforcements due to some washouts. I’d skip it in rainy season.

We rented a car for the drive on this trip but honestly, we are rethinking Mexico car rentals based on our experience as our we had mechanical issues for the first time ever in our travels, which was stressful!

The easier, low hassle experience would be to pay for a private or shared shuttle. You can check prices and availability here.

Day 4 to 6 Puerto Escondido

The gorgeous beaches of Puerto Escondido are about a three hour drive from Oaxaca City. (See gray box above for transport info.)

We spent three idyllic days here in nearby La Punta, which has a sort of bohemian surfer/backpacker vibe.

And we found it easy to walk to all the nearby restaurants and cafes in just a few minutes from our Airbnb.

There were so many great places to eat here in La Punta, too! We ended up at the beachside Fish Shack more than once. Outstanding fish tacos here!

And we enjoyed excellent pizza at Mundaka Pizza.

We also had a seriously memorable Peruvian lunch at Chicama. Think fresh, flavorful seafood with your feet in the sand!

Expect an epic line out at the door for dinner here. Or skip the line as we did when you go for lunch!

Puerto Escondido itself is larger and more urban than La Punta. I was really happy we stayed in La Punta instead.

Best Beaches in Puerto Escondido

La Punta is a great little swimming beach in—you guessed it—La Punta.

We also really loved our time at beautiful Playa Carrizalillo in Puerto Escondido. Be prepared for many steep steps down to the beach and be aware that it gets crowded with locals by midday.

Early morning it’s empty and gorgeous. And the water is warm! Aside from a few beginning surfers on the periphery, you’ll find the bay calm with no waves for swimming.

You can also rent sun loungers that come with a credit toward food or drinks from the beach bars.

To see some seriously large waves, head to Playa Zicatela. Known as “the Mexican Pipeline”, this is where Big Wave Surfers come from around the world (typically May to August) for world-class barrels.

Day 7 Relaxing in Oaxaca City

After our visit to Puerto Escondido, we drove back to Oaxaca City for our final night before heading to the airport.

We made a final visit to Boulenc for pastries, relaxed at a rooftop bar, and enjoyed a final mole and “garnaches”—Oaxacan snacks consisting of small fried tortillas with various toppings—at La Teca, a small local restaurant that is rumored to be a favorite of former Mexican President Obrador!

We loved the flower-filled patio particularly!

Your Week in Oaxaca is a Wrap

Seven days in Oaxaca reveal just how much the region has to offer, from vibrant markets and world-class cuisine to ancient ruins and dramatic landscapes. We felt that we’d just scratched the surface in our week here.

By the end of your time here, you’ll leave with a deeper appreciation for Oaxaca’s history, food, and traditions—and likely start plotting your return!

Oaxaca FAQ

1. How many days do you need in Oaxaca?

Most travelers need 3 to 5 days in Oaxaca to tour the historic center, visit Monte Albán, explore markets, and enjoy the foodie scene.

A 7-day Oaxaca itinerary also allows time for Hierve el Agua, mezcal tours, and nearby villages and/or a few days at Puerto Escondido for beaches.

2. What is the best Oaxaca itinerary for first-time visitors?

A great Oaxaca itinerary includes 2–3 days exploring Oaxaca City, one day at Monte Albán, one day at Hierve el Agua, and time for markets, mezcal tastings, and traditional villages like Teotitlán del Valle. Or, skip some of the day trips and head to Puerto Escondido!

3. What is Oaxaca best known for?

Oaxaca is best known for its mole sauces, mezcal, colorful markets, Monte Albán ruins, artisan villages, and vibrant cultural traditions.

4. Is Oaxaca safe for tourists?

Oaxaca is considered one of Mexico’s safer destinations for travelers.

We wondered about this before visiting, but felt 100 percent safe everywhere we went.

And yes, we visited about a month before the cartel violence in Puerto Vallarta, but we’d still return to Mexico now.

Risk tolerance is personal but I will say that most Americans seem to accept the random and prolific gun violence in our country more casually than tourists from other countries do.

Sometimes I think we can be more fearful than we need to realistically be when traveling abroad.

As for Oaxaca City specifically, the historic center is generally safe. Just be smart as you would in any city. Don’t wave your phone around, wear expensive jewelry or head into sketchy areas late at night.

While we didn’t spend any time at night on the beaches of Puerto Escondido, I have heard tales about police officers shaking down tourists for cash after dark there. It’s completely safe in the daytime.

It’s also safe to hail a taxi on the street or use the DiDi app in Oaxaca City.

5. When is the best time to visit Oaxaca?

The best time to visit Oaxaca is October through April for dry weather and ideal temperatures. July is popular for the Guelaguetza festival but can be crowded. Plus, it’s HOT in summer!

6. Where should you stay in Oaxaca?

In our opinion, first-time visitors should stay in Oaxaca Centro for walkability, restaurants, and historic architecture or Jatalco for quiet, colorful murals, and its vibrant cafe scene.

7. Can you visit Hierve el Agua and Monte Albán in one trip?

Yes, in theory, but you’ll be exhausted. Choose just one if you’re short on time or schedule them on separate days. Monte Albán is close to the city so it takes just a half day, while Hierve el Agua requires a full-day trip and a long drive.